Ten Unwritten Rules for Travel In China

Rule No 10 - always fight to pay for the bill Rules such as double checking your China visa, having travel insurance and having a practical budget you can stick to are all pretty obvious.  There are other less formal and obvious but no less important rules that can make a big difference to your travel in China. These rules are the unwritten rules of travel in China passed on from one traveller to the next in hostel lounges, disreputable bars, hiking trails and the far ends of the Great Wall. I have listed below the 10 most important of these unwritten to help make your time in China more enjoyable. If you have travelled in China before and have picked up your own unwritten rules, feel free to add them at the end of this post. 1 – Don't brag and carry on about how good your country is One of the most annoying things a foreign tourist can do in China is brag about how everything is so much better in their own country.  Sure most of us come from beautiful countries which great infrastructure, legal systems and football grounds but so what?!? You travel to China experience, enjoy and celebrate the incredible diversity, uniqueness and beauty that China has. 2 – More expensive does not mean better I'm a bit of a budget traveller so I'm probably prejudiced but I can say with all honesty that some of the best meals, rooms and experiences you can get will be in small dingy restaurants, street vendors, out of the way hostels and chaotic local markets. Five star restaurants and hotels have superb service and luxurious environments but little or no character. You hardly know you are in China when you eat and sleep in them. Truly the best way to experience travel in China is to eat where the locals eat, focus on the content of tours/activities not their price, and stay at small hostels/hotels that tell you about China. A classic example being the small hutong hotels you can find in Beijing. 3 – Pack thongs / flip flops No matter where you plan to travel in China or for how long, you will find the humble flip flops indispensable. Great for beaches, showers, middle of the night toilet runs and squashing cockroaches. They also have the benefit of being cheap, take up very little room in your backpack and are virtually indestructible.  They can also make great trade goods and conversation starters. 4 – Take at least one decent set of clothes For most of your time in China you'll be wearing worn out, non descript jeans, shorts, shirts and so forth which are great for climbing the Great Wall, hiking Leaping Tiger Gorge or riding a smelly camel on the Silk Road.. They are not so hot for dinners with Chinese friends/hosts, a night on the town in Shanghai, visiting the Mausoleum of Mao Zedong or many other occasions where you need to look half reasonable. So stuff at least one set of semi decent and clean clothes in your pack for these special occasions where your normal ragged and smelly shorts, singlets and sandals will not do. 5 – Pack the minimum and buy what you need in China You can by anything and everything in China with the exception of safe infant formula.  So don't pack stacks of socks, t-shirts, under wear, tooth paste and other essentials that you are worried you can't find in China. Trust me, you can find everything you need and more. Many people come to China with empty backpacks and suit cases that they take home loaded just because you can buy everything here. If you don't believe me, take a quick tour around your home and see where most of your possessions are made. 6 – Keep your cool in the face of perceived rudeness Often in China you will find locals will bump into you with out saying sorry, push into queues ahead of you (or not even queue at all), give some what brusque service and irritate and annoy you in so many other ways. There may be a strong temptation to jump up and down, throw a righteous tantrum and chastise the offending party. No matter how real or imagined the offense is, keep you cool, force out a smile and move on. You are in China to enjoy yourself and cultural differences that cause real or imagined slights are part and parcel of travel and getting angry, as justified as you may be, will not help. 7 – ALWAYS carry tissues with you As you travel around China, you will find that most Chinese public toilets do not have toilet paper. If you don't carry tissues, you will end up in some very embarrassing situations. Carrying tissues is also a great way to make yourself popular with your fellow tourists who find themselves less prepared than you are. 8 – Cross the roads VERY carefully In most western countries, cars will stop and make way for pedestrians. In China pedestrians make way for cars even at pedestrian crossings with green lights. Many Chinese drivers are certifiably insane once they are behind the wheel and public bus drivers are the worst of them SO no matter what, be very VERY careful when crossing roads. One useful technique that many locals use is to cross roads in groups because stragglers maybe picked off but there is security in numbers. 9 – "No Thank you" does not mean no When Chinese communicate, they often place more emphasis on implied meanings than direct meanings. This is especially the case with refusals where no thank you does not mean no. It is customary for Chinese people to refuse your offer two to three times before accepting to be polite and to maintain face. If you are offering a Chinese friend, colleague or companion something they need or want such as a drink, help or payment and they say no, keep offering because they don't mean no and they will eventually accept. Be careful though because just to be confusing they will sometimes mean no. 10 – Always fight for the bill when some one else is paying Often in restaurants and bars you will see people happily enjoying themselves together then as they prepare to leave, start pushing each other, struggling and yelling. Don't worry, they are just fighting over who gets to pay the bill. It is considered good manners to be verbal and aggressively to fight for the bill even when you have no intention of paying for it. The fight should last for a few minutes then the host will be allowed to win and pay the bill. If a Chinese companion is taking you out, always fight for the bill at the end of the night to be polite, give them face and show respect. Don't' get too carried away through and actually win or your host will be mortified and incredibly embarrassed.

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Travel To Xinjiang – China

"He's from Pakistan." "No, no! He's Japanese." A lively group of Uyghurs orbiting around me at the Hotan marketplace in southern Xinjiang were vociferously debating the nationality of the 196cm foreigner standing before them. I am in fact a first-generation American of a hybrid Scandinavian-Mediterranean-Hispanic lineage, my dark brown features and unkempt travel whiskers often causing confusion amongst Asians who can't quite place my nationality. Ironically, Han Chinese often mistook me for a Weiwuerzu someone from Xinjiang. If there is one province unlike any other in the People's Republic, it would have to be Xinjiang. Categorically different from the rest of the country in every conceivable way, the Muslim-dominated Xinjian in the distant northwest is at once China's most intriguing and intimidating travel destination. Xinjiang Autonomous Region is China's largest, sharing international borders with Pakistan, Afghanistan and central Asian countries. This geographical proximity resultingly accounts for over half of China's 12 million Muslims, perhaps Xinjiang's most obvious characteristic Muslim followers of Islam, the second largest religion in the world, are a devout people who believe in the oneness of God, called Allah in Arabic, as opposed to the Christian doctrine of a holy trinity. Muslim adherents can be seen throughout Xinjiang carrying venerated copies of the Qur'an (Islamic holy scripture) and faithfully dashing off to he mosque five times a day for a congregational series of Mecca-facing prostrations and prayer. Xinjiang's predominant nationality is the Uygur, a vibrant and outgoing culture of Central Asian descent whom this writer affectionately likes to refer to as The Desert People. The Turkic-speaking Uyghurs traditionally attire themselves in simple, loose-fitting robes to accommodate the harsh climate, with the men wearing either plain white or brilliantly embroidered dopi skull caps and the women veiling themselves in a hijab headscarf. A shaved head and long beard further distinguishes the Uyghur men while the ladies take pride and pleasure in dyeing their hands red with henna. Geographically, Xinjiang offers starkly different topography and climate throughout the vast region, ranging from the cool alpine mountains of the northern Altay region to the arid southern sands of the Taklamakan, the second largest desert in the world. And while Urumqi, Xinjiang's capital, is a gleaming northern metropolis of skyscrapers and department stores, the remote cities bordering the south-western Tarim Basin, including the famed Silk Road oasis of Kashgar, are known for their more traditional way of Muslim life. Attractions Situated directly on the borders of Mongolia, Russia and Kazakhstan, the spectacularly sapphire-blue Hanasi Hu Lake in the mountainous region of northern Xinjiang is a popular tour group destination. To the south, the massive Sunday markets in Kashgar and Hotan are not to be missed, though the latter is arguably more authentic. Transportation 1. From Beijing to Urumqi, 10 flights daily between 8am and 9pm (four hours, 2,410 yuan) 2. To Hanasi Hu, a group tour arranged by any Urumqi travel agency is often suggested for its feasibility, however a majority of time is spent in transit (four days, 500 yuan, including accommodations and entrance tickets) 3. To Kashgar, overnight trains leaving daily from Urumqi at 1pm and 5pm are the most convenient and comfortable way to travel (30 hours, 170 yuan). 4. From Kashgar to Hetian, busses depart from Renmin Donglu almost hourly between 7am and 6pm (eight hours, 50 yuan). Accommodations Xinjiang disappointingly offers very little as far as budget accommodations or youth hostels, and due to immigration from neighboring nations, smaller boardinghouses are strict to only allow Chinese nationals. In Kashgar, the Uyghur-run Noor Bish Hotel near the famous Id Kah Mosque is a backpacker's favorite (30 yuan for a dorm bed). Regional Cuisine If China is famous for its cuisine, then Xinjiang is responsible for half its success. Heavily seasoned lamb kebab (yangrou chuan), spicy lamian noodles topped with peppers, tomatoes and garlic, deep-fried fresh fish (how did they get fish in the desert?), goat's head soup, golden pilaf rice and fragrant peaches and watermelon, all washed down with refreshing cinnamon tea. There may not be as much bread (nang) in the whole of China as in Kashgar, with lightly seasoned loaves and sesame seed bagels being pulled hot out the oven by the minute.

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5 Tips to Follow When You Travel to Hong Kong

Whether you are travelling to Hong Kong on business or as a tourist, there are some things you should know regarding local customs and traditions. You will still stand out as an 'outsider' but when you show the local people that you respect their customs, you in turn will receive respect from them. They will appreciate your efforts and will treat you with admiration. Here are five things you need to know when you are visiting Hong Kong. 1) Tax and Tipping: There is no sales tax in HK; however, be aware that there is a 5% government tax rate on hotels. Tipping is not customary but is becoming an expected habit from Westerners. Typically, be prepared to pay $10 (HK dollars) for porters at the hotel and $2 for each bag when enlisting the help of a porter at the airport. 2) Currency: The currency in HK is known as the HK dollar (HK$). The government issues the currency in notes of HK$10, HK$20, HK$50, HK$100 and HK$1,000. It is best to check with your bank for the most up-to-date exchange rate, as it changes daily. As a general rule, it usually trades at approximately HK$7.8 to 1 U.S. dollar. 3) Tea Time: To fit in with the locals at a restaurant, you will want to tap two bent fingers on the table as an expression of thanks when you are served hot tea. 4) Restaurants: Most entertaining takes place in restaurants rather than private homes; it is customary to let your host decide what the meal will be; have a little bit of everything as it is considered rude to pass up on a dish. 5) Business Cards: These cards are given out as often as handshakes and you are expected to give one in return for every one that you get; Have plenty on hand. Hong Kong has two official languages: Cantonese and English, so if you speak one of these, you shouldn't have a problem getting around. There are also many places of worship so whether you are Christian, Jewish or Muslim you will be able to affirm your faith accordingly. Most hotels provide their guests with bottled water, although tap water is safe to drink. Check with your local customs laws before you leave so you know how much you are allowed to bring back. This usually depends on how long you've been away.

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Top Ten China Travel Experiences

China is a fantastic country to travel. There's quite simply a huge abundance of things to see and do during your China trip. With all its ancient history and Asian culture it's a travellers dream. Get you cameras at the ready as you won't take your finger of the trigger throughout your China travel experience. Now this list could go on forever but if I had to choose, here would be my top ten travel experiences in China. The Great Wall of China- This has to be number one really – an essential ingredient of any China trip. It's one of China's most iconic landmarks and it defiantly does not disappoint. One of my all-time best China travel moments was sitting on the edge of the Wall watching the sun set in to the mountains in the distance. Star gazing at Labrang Monastery in Xiahe – The skies in Xiahe are truly spectacular as you can see millions of stars. Looking out for a shooting star as the monks chant with wafts of insence in the air is altogether a great China travel experience. The Karst Mountains in Yangshuo- Scenery doesn't get much better than this. Towering limestone formations dominate the landscape and create one of China's most beautiful locations. This is something that you definitely don't want to miss out on during your China trip. Hong Kong's Skyline- One of the best that I've seen from my travel in China. The city even puts New York to shame with the amount if skyscraper's on offer. The view point at Victoria Peak is defiantly a must to really appreciate the beauty of the metropolis. Head up just before it gets dark and watch the city light up as the sun goes down – a magical China travel highlight. The Sera Monastery in Lhasa- Not necessarily the top attraction is Lhasa which is why it's one of the best. Nestled away from the normal tourist route the original structures of the Sera Monastery date back to 1419 with halls decorated by beautiful scriptures written in powdered gold. Be sure to arrive before 3pm to watch the afternoon debating session between the crowds of monks, a really quirky experience that you won't find anywhere else during your Tibet and China trip. Camping in the Ganya Grasslands - Camping in the surrounding areas of Xiahe was a brilliant experience and one that I would not normally think of to do during a China trip. Rolling green hills and blooming flowers all topped off with a few grazing Yak. Nature at its best. The "Impressions" Light Show in Yangshuo- "Impressions" was directed by Zhang Yimou who also created the Beijing opening ceremony. The show is set on the Li River itself with the Karst Mountains as the backdrop – a magical China travel experience. Expect spectacular music and a stunning light show. Wangfujing Snack Street in Beijing -If you're feeling hungry and a little adventurous take a walk down Wangfujing snack street and see what the Chinese like to tuck in to instead of a bag of peanuts. Scorpions, star fish, seahorses and giant beetles are all on offer with a side of chilli sauce! This is a China travel experience that you won't forget in a hurry! Hiking the Dragon's Bone rice terraces in Ping'an - Defiantly a place to get that postcard photograph. You'll climb and descend through marvellous scenic areas where the staggered terraces shatter off in to the distance. The best time to visit is from December to April as the terraces are filled with water which creates amazing reflections on a still morning. Shanghai and the Bund- China's biggest and most prosperous city oozes atmosphere with stunning colonial architecture and dusty ancient temples tucked between futuristic sky scrapers. It's a great place to begin or end your China trip.

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South Sea Pearl and Leizhou City in China

South sea pearls come from Leizhou City in China is famous far and near. Leizhou city is located at the middle of the Leizhou Peninsula. There is an abundance of the ocean resource, which has many different kind of fish, prawn, snail, and shell, clam shell and so on. Pearl is one of the ocean precious products. The development of Leizhou's pearl goes back to Han Dynasty. With the social development and the advance of technology Leizhou people began to culture pearls to instead of the traditional collection, including south sea pearl, freshwater pearl. Under the assistance of the scientists of South China Sea Institute, the success of the artificial incubation on pearls advanced the development of the pearl culture. After the Third Plenary Session of the Eleventh Central Committee of the Chinese Communist Party, the pearl culture got a fast development. Collective culture, union culture and personal culture come over popular. The culture site increased from 16 to more than 600 during 1985 to 1988. At the end of last century, it was surprise at the development of pearl culture in Leizhou city. In 1990 the cultured pearl was total 2550 kilogram, which was 65% in the nationwide output. In 1992 the culture site increased to around 3000, located everywhere in Leizhou city. The total output was also increased by 75.30%. In 1993 the total output of Leizhou city was nearly two thirds in nationwide output. The Pearl Village, Liusha, has around 2541 culture site and culture area over 2300 mu. Its total output can be half of the nationwide output, which also increases the income of the people there. The pearls from Liusha are high quality and well sold all over the world. Along the quick development of the culture pearl, the pearl craftwork industry also develope quickly. Now there is around 25 shell pearl factory and around 56 pearl jewelry factory on pearl necklace, pearl bracelet, pearl earrings and so on. Those products well sale to many countries and districts such as Hongkong, Japan, America, England, Egypt, Southeast of Asia and so on. Due to the best location of Leizhou Peninsula, rich ocean resource, definite instruction of Chinese Communist Party, Leizhou people adjust measures to location to collect pearls, culture pearls, process pearls, sale pearls, which finally makes the South sea pearl and Chinese pearl famous all over the world.

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Travel insurance, SIM card

Get travel insurance, it's essential...

Never travel overseas without travel insurance from a reliable insurer, with at least £1m or preferably £5m medical cover.  It should also cover cancellation and loss of cash (up to a limit) and belongings.  An annual multi-trip policy is usually cheaper than several single-trip policies even for just 2 or 3 trips a year (I have an annual policy myself).  Here are some suggested insurers.  Seat61 gets a small commission if you buy through these links.

If you live in the UK, get quotes from Columbus Direct or Go Travel Insurance, or go to Confused.com to run a price comparison on a whole range of travel insurance providers for your dates of travel, seeing their policy's features at a glance..

         If you're resident in Australia, New Zealand, Ireland or the EU, try Columbus Direct's other websites.

    If you're resident in the USA or Canada, try Travel Guard USA.

Get a spare credit card, designed for foreign travel with no currency exchange loading & low or no ATM fees...

It costs nothing to take out an extra credit card.  If you keep it in a different part of your luggage so you're not left stranded if your wallet gets stolen, this is a form of extra travel insurance in itself.  In addition, some credit cards are significantly better for overseas travel than others.  Martin Lewis's www.moneysavingexpert.com/travel/cheap-travel-moneyexplains which UK credit cards have the lowest currency exchange commission loadings when you buy something overseas, and the lowest cash withdrawal fees when you use an ATM abroad.  Taking this advice can save you quite a lot on each trip compared to using your normal high-street bank credit card!  You can save money on ATM charges and exchange rates using a Caxton FX euro currency Visa Card, or indeed the multi-currency 'Global Traveller' Visa Card, find out about these cards & sign up here.

Get an international SIM card...

Mobile phones can cost a fortune to use abroad, and if you're not careful you can return home to find some huge bills waiting for you.  I've known people run up a £1,000 bill in data charges just by leaving their iPhone connected during a simple trip to Europe.  However, if you buy a global SIM card for your mobile phone from a company such as www.Go-Sim.com you can slash the cost by up to 85% and limit any damage to the amount you have pre-paid.  It cuts call costs in 175 countries worldwide, and you can receive incoming calls and texts for free in 75 countries.  It's pay-as-you-go, so no nasty bills when you get home.  It also works for laptop or PDA data access.  A Go-Sim account and any credit on it doesn't expire if it's not between trips, unlike some others, so a Go-Sim phone number becomes your 'global phone number' for life.

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Guidebooks

I strongly recommend investing in a decent guidebook.  It may seem an unnecessary expense, but it's a tiny fraction of what you're spending on your whole trip.  You will see so much more, and know so much more about what you're looking at, if you have a decent guidebook.   For independent travel I'd recommend either the Lonely Planet or the Rough Guide, both provide an excellent level of practical information and historical and political background.  You definitely won't regret buying one..!  Seat61 gets a small commission if you buy through these links.

Click the images to buy at Amazon.co.uk

Or buy Lonely Planet China direct from the Lonely Planet website, with shipping worldwide.  Alternatively, you can download just the chapters or areas you need in .PDF format from the Lonely Planet Website, from around £2.99 or US$4.95 a chapter.

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Hotels & accommodation

Find a hotel in Beijing, Shanghai & other Chinese cities...

Search by hotel name  Powered byHotelscombined.com

◄◄◄◄◄ Search all the major hotel booking websites at once... www.hotelscombined.com is probably the best hotel search system I've seen, a free search tool which checks all the main hotel booking sites (Opodo, Expedia, Booking.com, Hotels.com, AsiaRooms, Travelocity, LateRooms and others) to find the cheapest hotel rates.  Set up in 2005, it's probably the best place to start for booking any hotel online in any country, worldwide.

You might also want to check Tripadvisor's recommendations:  Tripadvisor Beijing & China hotel recommendations.  Backpacker hostels.

Tours & excursions...

To pre-book day excursions from Beijing to the Great Wall, or Beijing city tours, try www.isango.com.

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Trains to Lhasa & Tibet

	Above:  Destination board on the Shanghai-Lhasa train.  Photo courtesy of Mary Kitchen.
	Above:  Modern & comfortable.  A soft class 4-berth sleeper on the daily Beijing-Lhasa train.  Photo courtesy of Frances Partridge

The first regular passenger trains started running over the new railway to Lhasa in Tibet on 1 July 2006.  The Qinghai-Tibet Railway is the highest in the world, climbing from 2,829m above sea level at Golmud (Geermu) to 3,641m at Lhasa, much of it built on permafrost.  Its highest point is in the Tanggula Pass, at 16,640 feet (just over 5,000m) above sea level.  Because of the lack of oxygen at that altitude, all passenger coaches have extra oxygen pumped into them, and oxygen is available to passengers through tubes if they have problems.  Before the railway was built into Tibet, travellers had to take a train as far as Golmud (which the railway reached in 1984) followed by a gruelling 48 hour bus journey to Lhasa.  Now there are direct air-conditioned trains from Beijing, Shanghai, Guangzhou & Xian to Lhasa.

Regular passenger trains to Lhasa from Beijing, Xian, Shanghai, Guangzhou...

There are several trains a day to Lhasa, including a daily express from Beijing to Lhasa (a 2-night journey, 3,753km) and other trains running every second day from Xian, Shanghai & Guangzhou (formerly called Canton, near Hong Kong) to Lhasa.  These are modern air-conditioned Chinese Railways trains, with soft & hard class sleepers, soft & hard class seats & a restaurant car. Photos of the new Beijing-Lhasa train interior.  Train times & fares for these trains are shown below.

How to buy tickets...

Bookings open 10 days in advance.  In the first months of operation of the new line, tickets were reported as selling out almost as soon as bookings open, with no sign of demand diminishing.  However, it's become easier to get tickets, and you can now arrange tickets & tours through www.chinatraintickets.net or www.chinahighlights.com.  Alternatively, you can try buying tickets yourself at the station, arranging a permit separately, see how to buy tickets.

Getting a permit for Tibet...

In addition to a normal Chinese visa, foreigners require a special permit to enter Tibet, although there is talk of discontinuing this requirement in the near future, so please check.  The only way to get a permit is through a Chinese travel agency, for examplewww.chinatraintickets.net or www.chinahighlights.com who can arrange both trains and tailor-made tours.  The permit is valid to enter Tibet and reach Lhasa, though a further permit is required to travel any further.  There's a good article about Tibet permits at http://kekexili.typepad.com/life_on_the_tibetan_plate/2007/02/travel_in_tibet.html.

Deluxe tourist trains to Lhasa perhaps from 2011?  www.tangulaluxurytrains.com...

Deluxe tourist trains were due to start running from Beijing to Lhasa in spring 2009, later postponed to spring 2010 because of the recession.  The launch may well be postponed again or even cancelled, certainly their website is no longer working as I write this.  The trains were to feature luxurious sleeping-cars featuring double beds, private shower & toilet, restaurant cars and lounge-observation cars.  Exact dates, times and fares will be announced later, but the Beijing-Lhasa train will run year-round, with about 75 departures a year.  The trains will be marketed as Tangula Luxury Trains, see www.tangulaluxurytrains.com for more details, if indeed their site is still working.  The trains are a joint venture between Chinese Railways (Qinghai-Tibet Rail Corporation) and a Canadian company called RailPartners.

Beijing, Shanghai, Guangzhou, Xian ► Lhasa (Tibet)
	Daily	Every 2 days*	Every 2 days*	Daily	Daily
Train number:	T27	T222/223	T22/23	T264	T164
Beijing (West)  depart:	20:09  day 1	-	-	-	-
Shanghai depart:	|	-	-	-	19:52 day 1
Guangzhou depart:	|	-	-	12:19 day 1	|
Chongqing depart:	|	19:55 day 1	-	|	|
Xian  depart:	|	06:51 day 2	-	09:45 day 2	10:11 day 2
Chengdu  depart:	|	|	20:59 day 1	|	|
Lanzhou  depart:	13:04  day 2	13:32 day 2	13:32 day 2	16:19 day 2	16:53 day 2
Xining  depart:	15:52  day 2	16:19 day 2	16:19 day 2	19:05 day 2	19:50 day 2
Golmud (Geermu) depart:	01:38  day 3	02:03 day 3	02:03 day 3	04:41 day 3	05:12 day 3
Lhasa  arrive:	16:00  day 3	17:02 day 3	17:02 day 3	18:30 day 3	19:15 day 3

All trains are air-conditioned with extra oxygen available, and have soft class & hard class sleepers & seats, and restaurant car.  The soft sleepers have 4-berth compartments, complete with personal LCD televisions, occasionally showing English language movies.  Beijing metro map.  Street map of Beijing showing stations.

Guangzhou = Canton, a few hours' train ride from Hong Kong.

x = the train stops, but exact time not known.

* = runs every 2nd day, on odd dates in some months, even dates in others.  The only way to double-check which days the non-daily trains run is to look at the .pdf timetable atwww.chinatt.org/download.htm.

The Beijing-Lhasa train was speeded up from 11 January 2011 as it now uses a new bit of railway, but no longer calls at Xian.  The fare got cheaper, as the new route is shorter, at 3,753 km.

Lhasa (Tibet) ► Xian, Shanghai, Guangzhou, Beijing
	Daily	Every 2 days*	Every 2 days*	Daily	Daily
Train number:	T28	T224/221	T24/21	T266	T166
Lhasa  depart:	13:45  day 1	13:10 day 1	13:10 day 1	12:05 day 1	11:25 day 1
Golmud  (Geermu) arrive:	02:48  day 1	01:59 day 1	01:59 day 1	01:41 day 2	00:31 day 2
Xining  arrive:	12:42  day 2	11:28 day 2	11:28 day 2	10:37 day 2	10:07 day 2
Lanzhou  arrive:	15:14  day 2	14:00 day 2	14:00 day 2	13:24 day 2	12:58 day 2
Chengdu  arrive:	|	|	07:57 day 3	|	|
Xian  arrive:	|	22:13 day 2	-	21:30 day 2	20:50 day 2
Chongqing  arrive:	|	08:36 day 3	-	|	|
Guangzhou  arrive:	|	-	-	18:58 day 3	|
Shanghai  arrive:	|	-	-	-	11:15 day 3
Beijing (West) arrive:	08:06  day 3	-	-	-	-

Another train (not shown here) runs daily between Xining & Lhasa, extended to Lanzhou on alternate days.  Many other trains link Beijing, Xian, Lanzhou and Xining.  Beijing-Lhasa is 4,064 km, of which 1,110 km are over the newly-built Qinghai-Tibet railway.

Photos of the train & journey

Travellers' reports...

More photos of the new Beijing-Lhasa train interior

More photos of the railway to Tibet

Summary of times & fares for trains from Chengdu & Xining to Lhasa

Map of Chinese train routes   Onward travel to Kathmandu in Nepal, and from Nepal to India.

Train fares to Lhasa...
One-way fares per person (approximate)	Hard sleeper	Soft sleeper
Beijing to Lhasa, bought at reservations office in Beijing:	RMB 766 ($113)	RMB 1,189 ($174)
Beijing to Lhasa, booked in advance at www.chinatraintickets.net:	$240	$310
Shanghai to Lhasa, bought at the station reservations office:	RMB 845 ($125)	RMB 1,314 ($198)
Guangzhou to Lhasa, bought at the station reservations office:	RMB 923 ($147)	RMB 1,530 ($221)
Chengdu to Lhasa, bought at the station:	RMB 704 ($103)	RMB 1,112 ($163)
Xining to Lhasa, bought at the station:	RMB 523 ($77)	RMB 810 ($119)

Children under 120cm tall travel free, 120-150cm tall travel for half fare, over 150cm tall pay full fare (140cm was changed to 150cm in Dec 2008, and 110cm to 120cm in Dec 2010)

The sleeper fares shown here are for lower berths.  Upper berths (and middle berths in hard sleeper) are a fraction cheaper.

The journey by train to Lhasa....

In the air-conditioned restaurant car... Photo courtesy of Keith Crane		Scenery in Tibet, looking back at a bridge the train has just crossed...  Photo courtesy of Keith Crane

A view from the restaurant car of the Beijing-Lhasa train.  Photo courtesy of Brett Ackroyd.		In the restaurant car of the Beijing-Lhasa train. Photo courtesy of Brett Ackroyd.

A destination board on the side of the daily Beijing-Lhasa train.  Photo courtesy of Brett Ackroyd.		Scenery in Tibet seen from the Beijing-Lhasa train.  Photo courtesy of Brett Ackroyd.

At the highest point...  Photo courtesy of Keith Crane

Traveller's reports...

Traveller Brett Ackroyd reports (spring 2010):  "I took the train from Lhasa to Beijing. It departed absolutely on time from Lhasa and arrived at Beijing’s West Station on time two nights later. During the first 36 hours or so the buffet car (where I spent most of time) served only buffet for lunch and dinner and a set breakfast menu. It seemed that once the train cleared Tibet in to China things changed and a food menu was provided.  Smoking rules also appeared to relax once the train entered China, a fact backed up by the Lonely Planet’s entry regarding the train.  As far as I could tell oxygen wasn’t pumped in to the carriages, and although there were ports at all seats and beds for an oxygen mask to be attached I never saw a mask itself. I and all other passengers had to sign a health declaration form that before boarding that confirmed we hadn't any heart conditions and related problems!"

Traveller Frances Partridge reports (Nov 2008):   "Just completed the 48 hour Lhasa to Beijing train ride. Lhasa station is awesome; very modern, very beautiful; maybe a bit of a showcase? No one seemed to mind my photographing anywhere. We left dead on time. The attendant came to my compartment and gave me the oxygen tube to attach to the outlet in case of need.  Having been in Tibet for a week already, I was fine, just coughing a lot like most Tibetans were.  There were about eight other Westerners on the train, a handful of Tibetans and lots of Chinese people.
To be honest, not the most spectacular scenery, compared to crossing Tibet, but what an engineering achievement! The highest railway in the world, much of it constructed on permafrost.  At night the inside of the carriage doors froze hard but the carriages themselves were very warm and comfortable.  Outside we were above the tree line but under the yak line.  Endless moss, frozen rivulets of old ice, yak herds and what I thought were eagles but a Tibetan told me were 'eagle's nephews'.  I booked soft class (for a nice change) but the hard sleeper was almost as good according to my companions down the train.  I had the cabin of four beds to myself all day until late in the evening when an elegant Chinese lady appeared at my door.  She looked appalled to be sharing with a foreign backpacker, especially one who had spread out all over the adjoining bunk, but soon settled in and was civil (in Chinese).  The car attendants were pleasant; the waitresses in the restaurant car were surly with a habit of whipping away the ashtray after one cigarette.  Trying to make them smile was a good, if fruitless, way to spend time.  One morning we arrived for breakfast at 9.30 am to be told that for us, breakfast was over.  Annoying when the car is full of train personnel eating their heads off.  Travel, eh?  The train stopped at stations twice a day so we could stretch our legs and have an unhindered smoke and buy snacks.  I was tempted to jump off at Xian to go see the terracotta warriors but restrained myself, as there's always next year.  We stopped at one station late at night, where it seemed that half the Chinese Army were saying goodbye to the other half.  From the hugging and sobs and photography I assumed they had finished their posting in the Tibet Autonomous Region and were heading home to Beijing.  They were very young boys and girls. On the second day trees appeared outside and farms and cows.  Suddenly I stopped coughing and could breathe much more easily.  Then into the chaos and noise of Beijing.  I am so very glad I took this train - if you get the chance, go for it!"

Traveller Keith Crane reports:   "We had great trouble finding somebody who could book me a ticket independently (we were in Guangdong province - and tried calling Beijing) as all the agents wanted to offer a fully inclusive tour for between 5,000-7,000 Yuan.  Finally we found an agent in Chengdu, www.dreams-travel.com, who could book the ticket and our Tibet pass very efficiently.  They also run the very good Wen Jun Mansion Hotel, a recommendable, cheap place to stay.  Chengdu is also the home of China's Panda research and breeding base so you can see the cuddly black and white creatures close while you wait for your train!  Chinatripadvisor was pretty slow off the mark, not knowing much more than anyone else before bookings opened.  Anyway our combined ticket (soft sleeper and Tibet pass) came to about 1,700 Yuan each in the end and off we went.  Despite reading stories of altitude sickness we suffered none - and if the train was pressurised, we found the toilet windows open throughout the journey.  The soft class accommodation is comfortable - there are western-style toilets - but the catering facilities are limited - a 44 seat dining car for a 15 carriage train! And not enough refrigeration for cold beer.!"

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Shanghai - Xian by train

Shanghai ► Xian				Xian ► Shanghai
Train number:	Z92 *	T138		Train number:	Z94 *	T140
Shanghai  depart	19:58 day 1	15:53 day 1		Xian  depart	17:00  day 1	19:46  day 1
Xian  arrive	09:49 day 2	08:21 day 2		Shanghai  arrive	06:53  day 2	11:47  day 2

* Recommended high-quality Z-category train.  Runs daily, with modern air-conditioned soft sleepers (4-berth), hard sleepers and restaurant car.

T138/T140 also has air-conditioned cars, soft & hard sleepers & restaurant car.

There are additional trains between Shanghai and Xian en route to other places, but these trains operate specifically between these two cities. 

You can check times & fares at www.chinatravelguide.com or www.chinahighlights.com, you can book at www.chinatripadvisor.com.

Fares
Shanghai - Xian one-way per person	Hard sleeper	Soft sleeper
Bought at reservations office at station in Shanghai:	RMB 333 ($49)	RMB 511 ($77)
Booked in advance at www.chinatripadvisor.com:	$55	$79

Children under 120cm tall travel free, 120-150cm tall travel for half fare, over 150cm tall pay full fare (140cm was changed to 150cm in Dec 2008, and 110cm to 120cm in Dec 2010)

The sleeper fares shown here are for lower berths.  Upper berths (and middle berths in hard sleeper) are a fraction cheaper.

Train Z94 to Shanghai boarding at Xian.  Photo courtesy of Roger Keenan.		A soft sleeper on train Z94 from Xian to Shanghai. Photo courtesy of Roger Keenan.

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Hong Kong to Shanghai by train

Hong Kong ► Shanghai			Shanghai ► Hong Kong
Train number:	Every 2 days *		Train number:	Every 2 days **
	T100			T99
Hong Kong (Hung Hom) depart	15:15  day 1		Shanghai  depart	17:09  day 1
Shanghai arrive	11:15  day 2		Hong Kong (Hung Hom) arrive	13:05  day 2

* Train T100 Hong Kong to Shanghai runs odd dates in Jan, April, May, Aug, Nov, Dec 2011 & even dates in Feb, March, Jun, July, Sep, Oct 2011.

** Train T99 Shanghai to Hong Kong runs on even dates in Jan, April, May, Aug, Nov, Dec 2011 & odd dates in Feb, March, Jun, July, Sep, Oct 2011.

You can check times, fares & days of running at www.mtr.com.hk (click 'customer site' then 'intercity passenger services' then 'more information' & remember that Hong Kong is shown as 'Hung Hom' or 'Kowloon').

On board accommodation:  T99 & T100 have 2-berth 'deluxe soft sleeper' with private toilet, normal 4-berth soft sleepers, hard sleepers & restaurant car.

How to buy tickets:  If your journey starts in Hong Kong, you can book tickets by email at www.mtr.com.hk (click 'customer site' then 'intercity passenger services') and pick up tickets at the booking office, or just buy them at the station reservations office.  You can also arrange tickets starting in Hong Kong through Tiglion Travel, www.tiglion.net, which one seat61 correspondent has recommended.  Don't be surprised if they ask for a scan of your credit card.  If your journey starts in Shanghai, buy at the ticket office (there's an English-speaking window) or pre-book through an agency, see advice on buying tickets.

Departure formalities:  Departing from Shanghai, you should arrive at Shanghai station 90 minutes before departure for exit formalities.  Departing Hong Kong, you should arrive at Hung Hom station 45 minutes before departure.  The station in Hong Kong is in Kowloon and called 'Hung Hom'.  It can help to know that the Chinese refer to Hong Kong/Kowloon as 'Jiulong'.

Fares
Hong Kong - Shanghai one-way per person	Hard sleeper	Soft sleeper	Deluxe soft sleeper
Bought at reservations office in Hong Kong:	HK$ 519 ($65)	HK$ 825 ($110)	HK$ 1,039 ($135)
Shanghai - Hong Kong one-way per person	Hard sleeper	Soft sleeper	Deluxe soft sleeper
Bought at reservations office in Shanghai	RMB 408 ($62)	RMB 627 ($94)	RMB 1,040 ($155)
Bought through www.chinatripadvisor.com	$92	$145	$175

Children under 120cm tall travel free, 120-150cm tall travel for half fare, over 150cm tall pay full fare (140cm was changed to 150cm in Dec 2008, and 110cm to 120cm in Dec 2010)

The sleeper fares shown here are for lower berths.  Upper berths (and middle berths in hard sleeper) are a fraction cheaper.

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